Sewing Machine Needle Guide

When it comes to sewing, choosing the appropriate needle might be the difference between a smooth, joyful experience and a frustrating one. Understanding the needle to use for your fabric and project is critical, but it can also be very difficult. Let's get into the fundamentals of sewing needles—the many types, sizes, and features—so you can confidently choose the perfect needle for any sewing project.

Sewing Machine Needle Anatomy

The picture and descriptions are taken from the SCHMETZ Needles website.

  • Butt: The very top of your needle has a beveled edge for easier insertion into your machine.
  • Shoulder: The transitioning area between the shank and the blade. SCHMETZ color codes five needle types on the shoulder for easier identification.
  • Blade: The length of the needle. Needle size is determined by measuring the blade diameter.
  • Groove: Cradles and guides thread to the eye of the needle.
  • Scarf: The indentation above the eye that allows the bobbin hook to smoothly grab the thread under the throat plate to create a stitch.
  • Eye: The hole through which thread passes.
  • Point and Tip: The first area to penetrate the fabric in stitch creation. The point and tip length, shape, and size vary according to needle type.

    • Needle Sizes

    In sewing machine needle sizes, "NM" stands for "number metric" and refers to the needle's diameter in millimeters. This metric sizing system is used internationally and provides a precise measurement of the needle's thickness. 

    There are two main systems for measuring needle sizes:

    1. Metric/ European System: This is the most common system used today. The number on the needle directly corresponds to its diameter in millimeters multiplied by 100.
      For example, a 90 needle is 0.9mm in diameter
    2. Singer/ American System: Less common, this system uses numbers like 8, 11, 14, etc. The needle sizes range from 2 to 25 and increase by 1 or 2.  These numbers don't directly correlate to a specific measurement but rather indicate the needle's thickness relative to others in the system.

    On a needle’s package, the sizing will be listed with the metric system first, a dash, and then the singer system number—for example, 80/12. 

    When Should You Change Them Out?

    A general rule of thumb is to replace your sewing needle every 8 hours or when beginning a new project. Changing your sewing machine needle is critical for maintaining peak performance and producing high-quality results on your sewing projects. A sharp and appropriately sized needle ensures that stitches are smooth and of uniform quality.


    This could change if you see any symptoms of deterioration, such as bending or dullness. Stitching needles bend largely due to stitching through dense fabrics, encountering impediments such as pins, or incorrect installation. Using the wrong needle for your fabric or stitch could result in bending.


    Sewing with a blunt needle can cause several issues. It has trouble penetrating fabric, which can result in fabric damage, uneven or missed stitches, and frequent thread breakage. This can also put additional strain on your sewing machine, potentially resulting in mechanical troubles.

    Reading a Needle Package


    Color Coding Needles

    Household sewing machine needles come with two colored bands. Needle size is indicated by the lower band, while needle type is shown by the upper band. These color codes are assigned by the brand and may differ throughout needle makers. 


    The photo below demonstrates the  SCHMETZ Needles color indicator, sourced from their website.


    Fabric & Needle Suggestions

    The list below was sourced from the SCHMETZ Needles website.

    • Coated Material- Microtex 70/10-110/18 or Super NonStick 70/10-100/16
    • Elastic- Stretch 75/11-90/14 or Super NonStick 70/10-100/16
    • Fleece- Universal 70/10-90/14 or Stretch 75/11-90/14
    • Jacquard- Universal 80/12-100/16
    • Jersey- Jersey 60/8-80/12
    • Jersey with Elastic- Stretch 75/11-90/14
    • Knits- Jersey 70/10-100/16
    • Knits with Elastic- Jersey 70/10-100/16 or Stretch 75/11 or 90/14
    • Lycra- Stretch 75/11-90/14, Jersey 70/10-90/14 or Super NonStick 70/10-100/16
    • Microfiber- Microtex 60/8-90/14
    • Nylon- Universal or Microtex 60/8-90/14
    • Polyester- Universal or Microtex 60/8-100/16
    • Poplin- Microtex or Universal 60/8-80/12
    • Rayon- Universal 70/10, 80/12
    • Satin - Microtex, Jeans, or Universal depending on fabric weight
    • Silk- Microtex 60/8-90/14
    • Sweatshirt- Jersey 70/10-90/14
    • Taffeta- Microtex or Universal 60/8, 70/10
    • Twill- Jeans 70/10-110/18
    • Velour- Universal 70/10-100/16
    • Vinyl- Microtex 60/8-90/14 or Super NonStick 70/10-100/16